Laherte Frères Ultradition NV

Laherte's entry Champagne continues its skywards trajectory. Biodynamic and organic fruit, the quality being delivered for this price is outstanding. Bright, appley and fragrant, this feels fresh and easy to drink, buttressed by taut, lively acidity. As usual, it's made from a majority of meunier (60%), blended with 30% chardonnay and 10% pinot noir from a total of seven different parcels across the Côteaux Sud d'Épernay and Vallée de la Marne, namely Chavot, Mancy, Morangis. Breuil, Boursault, Moussy and Vaudancourt. There are now two reserve vintages blended in, giving more complexity and oomph, and the reserve wines now make up 50% of the blend, with 60% of that barrel aged material.